Beer Ingredient Kit
All ingredients necessary for a full 5-gallon (2-case) batch
All Malt
Brown Ale
Thanks for purchasing a True Brew tm ingredient kit. We warrant that the contents of this kit are fresh, and the highest quality ingredients available.
Brew Stats:
Beginning Gravity: 1.043 - 1.045
Final Gravity: 1.010 - 1.012
Hop Bittering Units: 5.5
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1) Preparation:
Gather all materials together, and prepare for brewing.
This kit should contain :
Unhopped Dark Malt Extract – 1 can
Dark Dried Malt Extract – 2 lbs
Malto-Dextrin – 8 oz
Hop Pellets – 1 oz
Ale Yeast – 1 pack
Priming Sugar – 5 oz
Bottle Caps
Other Equipment you'll need:
Brewpot: a large (6+ quarts) stainless or un-chipped ceramic pot
Fermenter with lid
Airlock
Hydrometer
Thermometer
Siphon Set
Bottling Bucket or other Secondary Container
Bottle Filler
Bottle Brush
Sanitizer
Saucepan
Long Handled Plastic or Stainless Spoon
Bottle Capper
50 12-Ounce Beer Bottles (non-screw-top long necks)
Cleanliness is essential to the brewing process, and must be a routine part of your technique. Thoroughly wash all equipment and utensils to be used with a solution of B-Brite, C-Brite or other Sanitizer. If necessary, finish with a rinse of cool water.
2) Brewing:
- Remove the label from the can of malt extract, wash the can, and place it in a pot of hot water to soften the syrup and make it easier to pour.
- Place 1-1 ½ gallons water in the brewpot, and bring to a boil.
- Turn the heat off (on an electric stove, temporarily remove from burner). While stirring the water with a long-handled spoon, slowly pour the extract into the pot. Continue stirring while adding the dried malt extract, malto-dextrin and hops. Stir until materials dissolve, then return to heat and bring to a boil. Note: When it first boils, the mixture will foam. Reduce heat, or remove from burner and foam will subside. Turn heat back on, and repeat process until foaming stops. Then boil for 20 minutes to ½ hour.
- Place 3 gallons of cold water in your fermenting vessel, and slowly pour the hot mixture into the vessel. Fill with additional cold water up to 5 gallons.
3) Fermentation:
- Allow the warm mixture (it's now unfermented beer, called wort) to cool if necessary, until it's under 90 degrees F.
- If you wish to take a hydrometer reading for beginning specific gravity, do so now before introducing yeast.
- Sprinkle the yeast over the top of the mixture. Wait 10 minutes and stir the yeast gently into the wort with 1 or 2 strokes of the spoon.
- Taking the airlock in one hand, and the lid of the fermenter in the other, gently twist the airlock tip into the hole of the lid. Place the lid on the fermenter, and push down hard until the lid is tight. Finally, fill the airlock half full of water and place its cap on top.
- Now the yeast does the real work! Over the next 24 hours fermentation should begin, and you'll see bubbling through the airlock. Fermentation should continue for 48-72 hours, and then cease as settling begins.
- Allow the beer to settle for 3-4 days after fermentation ceases (no more bubbles in the airlock). Generally, you'll be ready to bottle a week after beginning fermentation.
4) Bottling
The best bottles for homebrew are dark brown longnecks. They can't be screw-tops. ‘Grolsch' type bottles are excellent as long as the gaskets are checked for cracks and replaced if necessary. Use a bottle brush on any bottles with accumulated sediment, and then sanitize all bottles, carefully following the directions for whichever sanitizer you pick. Rinse as necessary.
- Clean and sanitize your bottling bucket with spigot attached, filler, all hosing, bottle caps, and any other equipment to be used.
- In a small saucepan, heat 1 cup water and the priming sugar. Mix until dissolved and bring to boil, then remove from heat.
- Place the full fermenter on a counter with the bottling bucket on the floor or a chair at a lower level.
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